Score!

Well, almost anyway.

I've been trying to find maps with sufficient resolution to plan my kayaking adventures. There's plenty of time since my kayaks and I will not be united in Congo until early 2014, but it may take that long....

Yesterday, Saturday, I set off to see if the Institute Geographique was still where I remembered from so long ago. Walked from the hotel to Blvd 30 Juin and guessed at a left hand turn. Just as I was about to accept failure, there it was, seemingly unchanged from the 1980's.

The old man at the gate selling air for tires from a compressor older than he said they were closed, but what did I want? Turned out there was someone there who might help me out. We limped over to the veranda and he called slightly less old gentleman out. Yes, he said, he could help me with a hydrology map, please come.

He escorted me down the hall that hadn't seen paint since independence (the first one) - nor a good dusting for that matter. Opened a door into a closet sized room, while he entered through another door. My side of the desk that separated the 2 doors was full of stacked plastic chairs, paper, cobwebs and yet more dust. There were 2 clean plastic chairs set hard up on the desk and he welcomed me to one. On the other side of the desk, intertwined electric wires crawled up walls and hung down in random intervals, intended perhaps to sport light bulbs. But now illumination came from florescent bulbs behind me. A small television with twisting images fading between color and black and white was on. I looked to see if his bed was set up there, but apparently he slept sitting up in the chair.

He opened an armoir and started pulling out rolled up maps, peering down the roll or opening it slightly to find what he was looking for. Each was discarded into a new random pile in its turn, until he found mine. I didn't have my reading glasses with me, but he lent me his to inspect a detailed map of navigable tributaries of the Congo river, edition 2005!

While it is not so very detailed (the key includes rapids, but that symbol doesn't appear on the map) and no roads or villages are indicated to help figure out put-in/take-out options, I had to have it. $50 if I came on the weekday and bought from the store, $40 today's price. Maybe some of that could go for soap for the floor or walls, or desk, or chairs.